You can't disable it. Check to see if Yoshimura sells different reactor springs like they do for the earlier models.

 

Thats not what i was hoping to hear. someone suggested on earlier models you can remove the adjuster bolts? and i was hoping the same would be true for the later model.

 

Do you have a service manual for your bike? Anyway 99% the clutch assemblies are the same and you can try to use the same approach that worked for the earlier models.

But the question why are going to do that? What is the point of doing that?

 

The only improvement on engine braking is to reduce it.

If you want to increase engine braking you are riding the bike wrong.

 

Agreed, I've read that some tuners on racing team even program the ECU to keep the RPM 500 higher so that engine braking isn't as noticable when getting off the gas. Why do you not wanta slipper clutch?

 

I also do not understand why would you want to disable it?
It is great to have a slipper clutch . I find it way better then my old 2002 GSXR 1000 without a slipper clutch .
You can just dump the clutch when downs hifiting instead of bliping the gas or slipping the clutch manualy so the rear wheel does not lock up.

 

What EXACTLY are you trying to accomplish here?

 

i love the slipper clutch u can realy dump the gears goin into the bends and not worry so much about rear lockup it works awesome, why would u want to remove it

 

By now he's second guessing his squiddyness...

 

Why do you think that eliminating the slipper clutch will give you more engine braking?

"A slipper clutch (also known as a slider clutch or back-torque limiter) is a specialized clutch developed for performance oriented motorcycles to mitigate the effects of engine braking when riders decelerate as they enter corners.

They are designed to partially disengage or "slip" when the rear wheel tries to drive the engine faster than it would run under its own power. The engine braking forces in conventional clutches will normally be transmitted back along the drive chain causing the rear wheel to hop, chatter or lose traction. This is especially noted on larger displacement four-stroke engines, which have greater engine braking than their two-stroke or smaller displacement counterparts. Slipper clutches eliminate this extra loading on the rear suspension giving riders a more predictable ride and minimize the risk of over-reving the engine during downshifts. Slipper clutches can also prevent a catastrophic rear wheel lockup in case of engine seizure or transmission failure. Generally, the amount of force needed to disengage the clutch is adjustable to suit the application."

Wikipedia

 

im not a big fan of mine either on my 07 600. been used to alot of engine braking and down-shift-blip-go for soooo many years. but wiht the slipper, it seems i can go ALOT deeper in my braking zones and throw the bish in w/o worring about bringing the back end around too much.

 

Actually I think it can be disabled quite simply.

It is just a matter of not setting up any clearance on the adjuster bolts.

 

why the hell would you wanna 'not' have a slipper???? haha they come stock for a reason dood

 

i really need to get to the track and test it out. went out for a nice ride today and banged down a couple. still need to get used to it i guess.

 

Sorry guys I should have explained.
I don't have a bike I just couldn't be trusted. I use two gsxr L0 motors to power a race car, and not having the engine braking is a negative in a car, its almost like coasting into corners and is actually a strange feeling and im having to compensate by pushing the brake pedal harder and I'm just not getting the feedback through the pedal.
If i cant find a way of disabling the slipper, im going to have to engineer a standard clutch probably from an earlier model if its possible, this weekends task.
And as a side issue the ECUeditor is actually brilliant and so easy to use.

 

On the outer case of the clutch there are three pins that fit through the clutch basket.

This controls how much slip you get from the clutch. The further they push through to the back the greater the slip. I would guess that if you would them back out you could reduce the slip just as easily.

Who knows, you may even be able to remove them altogether but you might want to experiment adjusting them gradually. Either way the tolerances are fine, the perfect adjustment (I think) is sticking through the back plate by just 0.3 mm.

 

To disable the slipper just pull out the 3 pins. Drag racers do this all the time to disable the slipper. You can also pull the basket and weld the back torque parts together. You can find more info about this on psychobike.com

 

My bad, I said zero clearance which is incorrect. Should be bolts out (full clearance) as indicated by Mike Edwards and GIX1000_07.